Wednesday, July 27, 2011
Day 10 - Back to the Beginning
Friday, July 22, 2011
Day 9 - Extreme Sports Ecuadorian Style
Thursday, July 21, 2011
Day 8 - Ecuadorian Playground...Here we come!
Today was a rather light day as far as events go. We packed and then had a pretty good breakfast at one of the restaurants we had eaten at before – scrambled eggs, hot chocolate, bananas, bread and butter, orange juice and other various edible foods. Might I add, it is surprising to me that the weather here in Limon is somewhat cooler than I expected. In fact, most of the kids and adults are wearing their sweatshirts. I expected hot (high 80’s) and humid (above 50%). What have gotten is cool and, not dry, but certainly not humid. It has to do with the altitude and air currents, but this is definitely different than expected.
We loaded the bus and left Limon for a place called Los Baños de la Agua Santa, or in other words, the Baths (hot springs) of Holy Water. These are located north of Limon about 8 hours’ drive. The countryside is beautiful, green and lush. Kieri did her devotional, excellent as always. After that, most of the kids napped or chilled. The only real excitement of the trip was Dr. Steve decided to operate on Toryn’s two ingrown toenails, one on each big toe. This took up the better part of an hour (we had to make sure it was a clean and sterile environment, etc) and a lot of the kids came forward to catch a glimpse of how it is done. Hopefully Toryn’s feet will feel much better now. By the way, our bus driver is actually very good and considerably more cautious than some we have had in the past – but even he could not avoid some of the bumps and ruts, so Dr. Steve did the operation while we stopped alongside the curb for lunch. Another surprising thing is the condition of the roads here in Ecuador. Most are in much better shape than some back home where we live, with the exception of some that were covered with recent landslides that are in the process of being cleared. So for the most part, it has been smooth sailing on the roads around here.
As we were getting close to Los Baños, we came across a place where you could pay a buck to cross the river gorge on a cable car for $1 each. So of course we had to do it. The cable car was 100 meters (about 330 ft) off the ground at its highest point and was 500 meters (1650 ft) long. On the other end, it went across the top of twin waterfalls. We talked the cable car operator into just taking us over the top of the waterfalls, then reversing and bringing us back. It was a thrill to be about 50 feet or so above the waterfalls, then as you came out over the gorge you could feel your stomach drop as you the waterfall/cliff fell away and you were 300 feet in the air! I hesitate to tell you parents some of the details of this diversion, but I it makes the event so much better. The cable car was very secure, but the door that allows you to get on and off was far from fiddle proof, so we had to make sure none of our group leaned on it as it was being pulled across the gorge. In addition, picture a guy essentially sitting down like he is driving and pushing the gas on a diesel engine and revving the engine to get the open topped cable car across and back. The whole operation would be an accident lawyer best dream.
Day 7 - Give and Get Back Tenfold
(Contributions from Jim Stark)
Still in Limon. The reception by the people here has been fabulous. They have taken us in and made us feel like one of their family. I believe having the Morningstar stay with various families in their homes was a very good move – the group has really come to know and understand a little of the culture of Ecuador in this way.
We were up not too early and dressed in grubbies. The objective of the day was to paint a local school – local meaning somewhere in the general area. It turned out the school was in a village named Yungantza around 30 minutes away, and out in the more rural part of the area. Very small school, only three classrooms in one building and a much smaller separate building that functioned as their library. The library had one wall with shelves on it, and with only maybe half of the shelves filled with books of various sorts. The school functioned to serve around 120 kids from the local area, from kindergarten thru high school. Last year there were 2 teachers, making $300 each from the Ecuadorian government to teach, but they were not paid so they resigned. What was left was the school superintendent (principle) and one other helper (I can’t remember his actual function). So these guys were the butcher, the baker and the candlestick maker all in one.
Once the paint and supplies were ready, the kids attacked the school with gusto. They did a very good job of knocking out the painting, finishing the whole thing in around 4 hours. The school wanted a mural on one wall, so Shane and Kieri came up with the idea of a sun surrounded by hand prints representing the sun’s rays. Most of the kids signed their names as well, so they left a handprint and signature as a piece of themselves in a remote part of Ecuador. Way cool!!
Lunch was served to the group – a traditional Shuar (local indigenous tribe name) lunch. It consisted of meal made out of palm tree trunk in the form of a potato, plus some fish and chicken. The palm trunk potato, fish and chicken were rolled up in palm leaves and slow roasted over some charcoal grills. They cooked the meal for the entire time we were painting, so by the time we were done with painting the school the texture and flavor were absolutely delicious and literally fell off the bones. Painting continued to about 3 pm. The group worked hard. Because the paint we used was oil based, we had to use some turpentine to try to clean up. Afterwards, Morningstar played games with all the students. It was incredible to see the way the young Ecuadorian kids were taking to ours. All of Morningstar came out of their shells and befriended these kids who have so little and seem so happy. It was a great learning experience for all of them
Then it was back to the bus and back to Limon. So the kids wanted to get cleaned up really good. We allowed them some time to do this, and then it was dinner time. We went to a pizza place – probably the only pizza place in a 100 mile or more radius from Limon. The pizza was actually quite good, and most of the kids consumed it hardily.
As a farewell to us for coming to their town, they had prepared a small production of their own. It was put on by some of the kids from Yungantza, so it was traditional Shuar dancing. The mayor of the town did some preliminaries, thanking us for coming, and then there were 3 gifts given: 1 to Elizabeth VanLueven for befriending the women of the Yungantza and promising to send Mormon missionaries to the community and books for the library. Then they performed 3 dances. Keep in mind that a slight rain was coming down, and this ending ceremony was held in Limon’s central plaza. But no one seemed to care, and a pretty good crown gathered to watch. The kids (and adult leaders) performed the first dance, and then they pulled in our kids and repeated the dance, teaching it to them. It was a blast to watch, and most of our kids picked up on the rhythm and steps pretty quickly. The same was repeated for the second dance, and then the third dance they did on their own. They thanked us again from coming to Limon. They said over ad over that we were the first group to come to their town to perform and provide service. They had others say they would come, but we were the first to live up to our word. We thanked them for being great hosts and mingled with the dignitaries and gathered crowd until Morningstar needed to get ready for the next phase of the evening - the Limon Prom.
The night was far from over. Our kids put on their Church clothes - all of them - and headed back to the Limon Colliseum/Gymnasium to dance the night away with the Limon youth. When they poked their head inside, it became apparent very fast that this was not a typical U.S. based prom. Entire families were present, dressed to the nines. A few older men approached our girls and asked them to dance. They turned them down most of the time. We watched every MStar person the entire night. They had instructions to leave at 11:30, but I think they lingered until 12 midnight. They had great stories to tell the next morning.
All in all, a satisfactory ending to a wonderful day. Tomorrow, we head to the extreme sports center of Ecuador - Los Banos, another 5 hours bus ride.
Day 6 - Great Expectations
Day 5 - Into the Sticks
Sunday, July 17, 2011
Day 4 - Ecuadorian Time
Let me first say that I am the first to admit that making Keri happy is no small feat at times, but when she is thinking first of her performers, the experience she wants for them on tour, and the expectations she has of traveling experiences, it is darn near impossible to meet those expectations. Let me also say that trying to understand what Morningstar is, the type of “tour” group it is, and the details that need to be coordinated to make a tour successful is also nearly impossible for someone to appreciate until they have been on a tour with the group. Let me give you a few examples. A normal tour group wants to learn about the details and history of the place they are traveling through. While Kieri wants the group to be respectful and appreciative of where they are, she also remembers better than most, what it is like to be 16 or 17 or 18. Trying to put together activities that are both entertaining and educational is an art that few have mastered. I know I haven’t. Our guides typically have to change their plans to create a better balance of fun with facts. A second example: most tour groups like down time. Kieri hates downtime. She has learned from years of doing this that down time is when teenagers do really stupid things. The more event filled and exhausting the kids are at the end of the day, the more likely they will actually sleep at night. Last example: the end of the day of a normal touring group is dinner. For Morningstar it is 1:00 am. Shows need to be broken down; kids like to play at the end of a long day. This means that 11:00 is the soonest the group will eventually settle down. If you let the group settle earlier, they are wide-awake for later in the night. So after explaining all of this, it typically takes about 4-5 days for tour organizers to “get” Morningstar and readjust their plan.
Ecuador presents its own unique challenges as does any country. When someone says the bus will be here in 20 minutes, it means 40. If someone says, “it will take us 2 hours to get there”, count on 4 – mostly because a landslide has blocked the road to where we are going. If someone says they have a tight schedule to keep, be sure talk over the tight schedule and fill in the loose 3-4 hours. Wanting to give credit to Victor and Jose, they have been more responsive and more adaptable than most others Morningstar have worked with in the past. They are working really hard to make sure details are paid attention to, communication is clear, water bottles are purchased when needed, venues are set up correctly and bus, boxes, and people all end up at the same place at the same time. They are already looking exhausted however. I hope they don’t quit on us.
Tonight is a performance in a beautiful theater. I personally can’t wait, as the first performance was a tough one to make sound good. The theater seats about 600-700. After breakfast Victor had arranged for a tour of a hat factory and some time in a local market for the group to do a little treasure hunting and shopping.
Our first stop was the Ortega Panama Hat Factory. This place was pretty cool. The process it takes to make the famous Panama hats takes days or even years depending on how fine the weave of the hat is. The hats were originated in Ecuador and exported to Panama during the building of the Panama Canal. The Ortega family was the first to create coops to outsource the making of the different stages, but having all coordinating and merchandising occur at a central point. This model benefitted the greatest number of people economically and created an industry that is still very successful alive today. We left the factory with a few Panama hat converts. Most purchases were in the range of $30-$70, but some hats in the store were over $1000-$3000.
We left the factory and headed to a local market. Everyone found something they couldn’t live without whether that was a switchblade, a very large spoon or a one of a kind bag. For Austin it was a jackpot, scoring 3-4 items that were the best finds he could imagine including a knife with hidden butane lighter. The artisan factor in Ecuador seems to be lacking in comparison to Peru, but there is still some great local handiwork to bring home. The people are very warm and open. It was a great day interacting with many of the locals.
We were then rushed off to visit an eco nature venue. Now I have to be careful here because Ecuador is at the front end of understanding how to tap into the eco tourism market, and what we saw at this location was interesting to be sure, but as we entered the venue I felt I was going through a Marble Valley School biome more than an established professional venue. In total, it was about a space of 1000 square feet that wound through cases of snakes, piranha, and a crocodile. It didn’t smell very good and in total contained less than 25 animals. But as I said, they will learn, improve and get better. We went from there to lunch and then to our venue to set up.
The theater was gorgeous. The building it was housed in was truly beautiful. The venue raised the bar for the performers and they met the challenge. The show looked twice as good as it did as any other time they had performed before. Costume changes, hitting solos and in-synch performances all improved dramatically. The audience was again very appreciative and responsive. They expressed they had never seen anything like this live and felt they had just been part of something professional and special. And most importantly, the kids felt like stars.
Day 3 - Logistics and Papparazzi – With Contributions from Jim Stark
The temperature here in this part of Ecuador is surprisingly cool. We are in a city called Cuenca, which is at an elevation of around 2600 m (8530 ft). It rained and it is definitely not warm, so all of us are wearing our sweatshirts. Even the native Cuencans are wearing coats. So, even though it is summer, and even though it is hotter than blazes in Guayaquil, up here it is a whole different world. The surrounding country is absolutely gorgeous. The kids are enjoying themselves immensely.
In the early afternoon, they all visited some local church cathedrals – really ancient structures to say the least. Morningstar then visited a place where they could overlook the whole city, as well as a visited a few other places. It was then time to come back to the hotel and get ready for the show in Chordeleg, which is an adjoining area of Cuenca but much more rural. The venue was an inside sports gym. In typical Latin American fashion, the show was scheduled to start at 8:00, but didn’t really start until after 9:00. It was a good thing though as the venue managers were late to let us in and not very helpful in helping set up changing areas for the performers, the optimal presentation direction (think high school basketball arena) and even simple things like a table for the tech equipment to sit on.
Eventually, there were probably between 300 and 400 people in attendance, so the turnout was good considering this particular venue was chosen at the last minute. Even though the acoustics were not optimal, the kids put on a really good performance and the crowd was very appreciative. The princesses and princes from the Disney section were an absolute hit!! They spent at least 10 minutes with the kids in the crowd during intermission, holding them and taking pictures with them. You could see the happiness in the faces of the parents as our youth interacted with their youth and literally made their day. Most of these kids have never seen a Broadway-type show, and probably never will again. Even though, due to the late start time, the show did not end until after 11:00, everyone stayed around to the end and the kids received a thunderous applause and whistles after the end number. All in all it was a very satisfactory performance. We had the buses and equipment loaded up by 12:29, and were back at the hotel by 1:14 in the morning, where we took a little time to quietly celebrate Jonathan’s birthday with a local birthday cake purchased that day from a local bakery. A great ending to a great day.
Day 2 - Road to Cuenca
We rose early, ate a breakfast of hot cocoa, fresh squeezed juice, eggs, and fresh rolls which are baked to have a thin crust and little dry, making them perfect for butter and jam or light dipping in the cocoa. Ironically, the restaurant’s name was The Californian. As usual, there are a few that don’t eat anything from a foreign environment. We made food rules early on that if we are being served in a hospitality situation, minimally the remaining. food must look like something was eaten. Additionally, if you are not eating what is being served in the morning, you must bring something to eat as a substitute that chaperones can witness being eaten. It’s important that performers keep their strength up. There’s definitely some substituting going on already.
After breakfast, we headed out to see Guayaquil. We boarded the bus and headed first to the Guayaquil Temple. I am always interested in seeing the reaction of members of the church who visit a temple in a foreign country. In this group, some had immediate reverence for the holy grounds and the structure that was built there appreciating the sacrifice and dedication its presence represents. Others saw the temple as an embassy of sorts, a safe haven of familiarity in a foreign place. Others noticed how out of place it seemed not realizing that the neighborhoods surrounding the temple were directly affected for the positive because of the increase in security, land values, and relative affluence of the area. Some see it as a stop along the way, at best a point of interest. We all, with our different viewpoints came to the temple mount to receive what we were ready to receive. President Franklin Toral greeted us and our Morningstar singers sang for he and his wife as well as one of Guayaquil’s stake presidents. There a great feeling felt by those present. Upon thanking President Franklin and gathering our group we departed the temple and headed back to the city center for a walking tour of Seminary Park, the Malecon, and the famous Las Penas barrio.
The bus dropped us a block away from Seminary Park, centered with a statue of Simon Bolivar on a horse commemorating his efforts to liberate Ecuador from the Spanish. The park was shadowed by an old stone and stucco cathedral with beautiful, crisp, colorful, stain glassed windows. The Cathedral had been modernized as it had flat screen monitors on either side of the pews attached to the central pillars and hanging parabolic speakers. As we walked into the park we quickly realized this was not a normal run-of-the-mill park. Cherie, Hannah and Jonny quickly found out that the trees were full of iguanas that used your presence under them to relieve themselves. I will just say that the iguanas leave quite a puddle. Luckily our group only got “sprayed” with peripheral moisture – not a direct stream. They were what seemed over a hundred iguanas in every tree or bush, on the lawns and walking across the cobblestone paths. They were protected in the park and therefore had the right of way.
We walked from the park to the Malecon (Mal-uh-con) which was a boardwalk of sorts. Think of it as Pier 39 with only periodic street vendors, an IMAX theatre and kiddie zoos. Our 32 lime green shirts made quite a statement walking through the 2-3 mile frontage. At the south end of the Malecon we were led to the same steps that our runners from the previous night had run up and down. There were over 400 of them leading us from the water front all the way up to an overlook point with a decommissioned lighthouse and a simple chapel. We had all hoped for a nice breeze when we reached the top – no such luck. Hot, tired and sticky we took refuge in a barrio restaurant barely big enough to fit us all to have lunch. As I looked around, it seemed Che Gueverra has inspired the owner as the joint was adorned with his face on 2 of the 4 walls.
After lunch, we loaded back on the bus and headed east and up to our next city – Cuenca. Cuenca sits at 8500 feet. The road was in great shape but full of curves and twist. As we made our climb and descents over multiple grades, we encountered some incredible views looking down into verdant valleys below, beautiful tropical rain and cloud forests on either side of the road, and large billowy blankets of non-threatening clouds cutting through the highest tops of the Andes peaks and leading our eyes to sunbursts and eventually sunsets and the day passed. Ecuador is green all over, unlike Peru that had a lot of arid landscapes.
The trip, with stops, took just about 5 hours. There were two stops along the way worthy of note. The first was at a fruit stand that was pregnant with any tropical fruit/food you would expect: banana, guava, papaya, plantain, mandarin, lemon, pineapple, coconut, sugar cane, watermelon and more. They were stacked in organized stand, pyramids and baskets awaiting travelers on the highway looking for a little refreshment. Of course we couldn’t pass up such an organic display of hospitality. We enjoyed our local bounty finds the rest of the trip and even at breakfast the next few days.
The next stop was a bathroom stop…..at no particular place along the road. Allie Ball and Ashlyn Howes could wait no longer. With no hope for a bathroom in the neat future, 5 other girls and a couple of guys took advantage of the stop. It’s important to understand the entire picture. Somewhere along an Ecuadorian 2-lane freeway, a bus is stopped just barely off the shoulder. It is dark, slightly raining and there is a 10-15 foot swath of earth between the bus and a rushing brook and the grass is high. The girls/female chaperones go first and most if not all are ill-prepared - no tissue paper. Kari Risley summarily teaches the group, both old and young, a mastered technique involving a little hiney-shimmy or waggle to take care of business.
We continued on our way and arrived at our accommodations, the Tommebomba Inn just in time for dinner. The entire city was clean, with narrow streets and European architecture. The hotel was comfortable except there was no heat in the hotel. In fact, it seems there are few places in Ecuador that do. Cuenca was a welcome contrast to the hot and humid air of Guayaquil, but it was a little chilly a night. We had to unload every box and piece of luggage from the bus and follow-van. This consisted of creating a fire bucket line and quickly moving all pieces inside the hotel. Some rooms had vents that allowed the adjacent room to hear everything being said or done in the next room, which was great if you as a chaperone needed to “check-in” on activities or plans for the night, but not so nice if you were trying to sleep, have a private conversation or go to the bathroom. Yes, the vents went from bathrooms of one room into the main rooms. The other aspect to the hotel that we knew was going to make our stay memorable for all involved was that the layout of the hotel included a lobby to roof atrium that reverberated any sound made at any floor. 19 teenagers and sound reverberation is not a good combination. Dinner was tasty. Most of our meals are going to consist of a chicken/pork/guinea pig meat entrée with vegetables and rice accompaniment. Soup is also typically served. Tonight’s soup was a cucumber potato broth soup.
After dinner, we get everyone situated in their rooms and put down for the night – we thought. I went to the 2nd floor lobby to submit the day 1 blog content and check email when about 20 minutes later the elevator doors unexpected opened and I saw Preston Stark, Tyler Howlett, and Kaden standing inside the elevator, shirts off, with a guitar between them. They seemed just as surprised to see me. With that image in your mind, you know they were up to something. After putting down a half naked serenading spree, the hotel ambient noise finally settled down as we closed our second day of tour.
Tuesday, July 12, 2011
Morningstar Tour 2011 Ecuador - Day1
Heroes - The theme of the tour it seems. Every year on tour Kieri develops a theme and a series of devotionals and activities to drive home life skills to enhance the MStar performer's life experience.
Morningstar is not an activity that you throw your kids into and watch idly by or put on the calendar as a weekly "lesson" or "practice". Morningstar requires more of its participants, their parents and some cases the whole family. Even though this all encompassing nature of the troupe is explained at the front end to both performer and parent(s), most families rarely comprehend what they just signed up for. Morningstar is not for everyone, and for some very unnatural. But all who have taken part in a tour and brought into a Morningstar year admit that the experience though hard, is worth the time, effort and money. They would also admit that they could not have had the experience they did without heroic efforts from Kieri, from their fellow performers who have remained dedicated to the values and participation regimen, from dedicated parents who see the value of the group in comparison to other activities their young adult has to choose from or coordinate with.
Morningstar only happens because of the constant heroic efforts of everyone involved. I would like to tip my hat to those who have given more than was asked, that have volunteered when asked and especially those who have without being asked. Parents, you have a given Morningstar a great group this year and I am so excited to be on tour with them in Ecuador.
The tour really started for me early in the day on Saturday when I met with Dagny and I realized how hard it was for her to miss her first Morningstar tour ever. We will miss both Dagny and Kieth. The pack day was long and confusing, but it made sure we had everything we needed - except for Kieri's portable iPod boombox charger and iPod which was left at the last moment. We are still working to resolve the repercussions of that one. Thanks to Kurt VanLueven, Kasha Coombs and Jocelyn Ives for getting us to airport in one piece. The airport process was the smoothest I have ever experienced. Some of that positive experience was due to luck, some was due to efforts of Friendship Ambassadors to keep Taca informed and most can attributed to great attitudes of the performers and helpful chaperones.
The flights - SFO to San Salvador, San Salvador to Guayaquil - were uneventful until we arrived in Guayaquil. We entered the country just fine, but when we went to collect our boxes and luggage we were short nearly 20 pieces. We were in the process of filling out the lost luggage forms when the carousel started up again and one by one they appeared. Customs questioned our tech equipment thinking we might be bringing it in to sell it, but even though the speakers were brand new and in their original boxes, we gathered all the tech equipment together and they finally got that we were a performing group, not potential black market dealers of roque technology.
Upon landing, we immediately felt the thickness of the warm, tropical air. Our cardboard boxes seemed to wilt a bit just getting off the airplane. We met our Friendship Ambassador (FA) host, Victor and our guide for the week Jose. They have already proved their worth in changing small and large details for us as the slowly understand what our needs are and what we are about. Each year presents different challenges to establishing a smooth flow for the tour. Each year FA helps adjust the local tour companies to step up to this challenges. Our first one this year is find a follow truck to carry all our boxes and luggage. They did arrange for a van, but not large enough for all of our stuff so we had to pile the rest inside the bus. It is only going to get worse because right now all of the costumes are packed in very stackable boxes, but after the first show they will remain on racks to allow the costumes to air out after each show. Joe and Victor are working on that problem. We checked into our first hotel, had our first dinner of chicken, rice and vegetables and fresh juice. Of course there were those that didn't touch their food, and those that chowed. But that happens every tour. The rule from now on is that if you don't eat off your plate, you have to bring food to dinner from a personal cache that you will eat.
The next thing that happened was a first. While we have gone jogging in the morning before in Czech Republic, Slovakia, Russia, Phillipines and Taiwan, I have never had a group go out at night in a unknown neighborhood, the night we land. There were about 6 performers and 5 chaperones accompanied by Victor that covered about 5-7 miles up to a lighthouse from which they could see the entire city. They reported feeling very safe, though conspicuous, and loved seeing Guayaquil at night. About an hour later (midnight), everyone settled in for the night, mostly.
Most memorable moments:
Seeing Kurt head to San Bruno rather than the airport exit, Celley Bodily making friends with everyone she had to talk to including the passport officers in Guayaquil, Lisa Hull rallying everyone for a late night Ecuadorian run, the look on Jose's face when he saw the number of boxes we had to load in the small van.
End of Day 1